TAKING YOUR PUPPY HOME

This will be your puppies’ first car ride and they may also be nervous in a new environment with new people and your new puppy may become car sick during the first few rides in a car. We recommend taking another person along to hold your new puppy or use a dog carrier. Keep open the window about 3″ to 4″ from the top. Have your passenger frequently, but slowly, rub the underneath of the puppy’s neck and talk to him in a soft voice. This proves to be effective most of the time in relaxing your new puppy. Most puppies will just sit there if they’re being held. Take a towel along just in case your puppy does get sick. They will start to gag and that is your cue to grab your towel. Bring a plastic bag to put the towel or paper towels in. It is so important that everyone stay calm during this first car ride home. Just be prepared that they most likely will get sick… and if they do…calmly clean it up and carry on.

Things you need for a puppy

To begin with, however, pick up these items to make your pup’s homecoming a smooth one.

  • Collar & leash. Your puppy will need a collar and leash the day you bring her home. …
  • Crates and containment. …
  • Dog bed. …
  • Food and water bowls. …
  • Food, treats. …
  • Grooming supplies. …
  • Identification. …
  • Toys.

What to do when bringing a new puppy home?

Once your dog is home

  1. Keep it pleasant but low-key at first. For a shy puppy or dog, being taken to a new place and then deluged with lots of loud, lively strangers can be really overwhelming. …
  2. Introduce your dog to his crate. …
  3. Start your training. …
  4. Set up a routine. …
  5. Get your dog license. …
  6. Find a vet.

Home at Last!

Give your puppy about 45 minutes to an hour to settle down once you get home. Some suggest taking them out and letting them walk around on your front lawn for a while but I only recommend this if your front lawn is far away from a public sidewalk where people may have walked their dogs. Parvo can last up to 6 months in soil and grass. Be careful where you allow your new puppy to go for the first 16 weeks. I recommend taking them to your back yard first.

Leaving everything your puppy has known in life so far will probably bring about some anxiety. However, this can be greatly diminished if you plan your schedules so that you will be home with the puppy the first 3 to 4 days at least. Make sure if you have young children that you’ve discussed with them before you pick up your puppy that it is necessary as hard as it’s going to be… to remain calm around the puppy at first. It won’t be long before they will get to play and run and jump with their new puppy but the first few hours and days home should be pretty calm… just pay attention to your puppies body language if they seem OK with what’s going on, then carry on but if they seem nervous then try to lower the excitement level a few notches.

Feeding Schedule for Puppies

The puppy’s feeding schedule will be somewhat dictated by your own personal schedule. You do not want to leave food out for the puppy so that he can just eat it whenever he wants. You want the puppy and his entire body on a set feeding and potty schedule. This is best accomplished by feeding the pup what he will eat at specific times on a specific schedule. Our Puppies at Labradoodles by Cucciolini are feed twice a day under six months of age;

By feeding on a set schedule, the dog will then go to the bathroom on a more set schedule and make house training easier and faster. Make it a habit to give the puppy some quiet time after the meal. Do not let the children romp and play with him for the first hour to an hour and a half after eating. This can lead to some stomach upsets. The puppy will probably need to go to the bathroom within 15 minutes after eating. A puppy’s meal schedule must include two measured meals a day, preferably at the same time every Day. The best time for your puppy’s first meal is around 7 a.m., and 5 p.m. for dinner. The last meal should always be around 5 p.m. so that he will have ample time to digest his food and eliminate one last time before bedtime.

The meals should consist of a healthy and well-balanced ‘grain free’ diet that has been designed for Puppies. This means refraining from cheaper dog foods that contains fillers and sugars rather than high quality nutrients. While these foods will make your dog appear to be full and satisfied, they are not giving your dog all the nutrition his growing body requires, and he may feel the need to eat more as he tries to meet those needs.

Lesser quality foods can undoubtedly affect the long-term growth and overall health of your puppy as well as cause constipation or diarrhea which makes house training that much more of a challenge. Low quality dog food can also cause skin issues, allergies, dull coats, itchy skin, ear infections etc. So it best to continue feeding the food we have recommended or one of the same quality. Also make sure not to overfeed your puppy, even if he is begging for more. If you have any questions regarding exactly how much food your puppy should be eating in the course of a day, talk to your veterinarian or Labradoodles by Cucciolini.

  • First thing in the morning: Take the puppy out to relieve himself. If you have a little time, it’s also a good time to play and interact with him.
  • Breakfast time: Wash his water bowl and give him clean water when you feed him.
  • After breakfast: Although everyone is busy in the morning getting ready for work or school, a quick walk after breakfast gives him a chance to do his business one more time.
  • Mid-morning: The rest of the morning might be devoted to nap time. If you’re home during the day, your puppy may want to hang out with you while you’re working or doing your morning chores. He’ll also need to go out at least one more time before lunch. If everyone leaves the house for the day, consider having a pet sitter to come in and walk him.
  • Mid-afternoon: It’s probably nap time again. And time to go out — again.
  • Dinner: If you arrange his mealtimes around yours, it will become natural to feed him either while you’re preparing dinner or while the household is eating.
  • Evening: Potty break, of course. The early evening is a good time for play and lots of interaction. You also want to let him burn off some puppy energy before bedtime. If you have time, an evening stroll gives him exercise and a chance to take a potty break. But schedule at least a few minutes outdoors before bed.
  • Bedtime: A set bedtime makes his adjustment and house training easier for everyone; whether it’s 8 p.m. or midnight, it doesn’t matter, as long as it becomes a routine. Take him to his crate and help him settle down for the night.

Eating Schedule – Puppies eat 2 small meals a day. ½ to 3/4 cup or less each feeding and more as they are growing , heck the side of the kibble bag for more info on feeding the correct amounts per age, you will get to know what the appropriate amount is after the first week for your puppy. All puppies are different. The first few days they might have a smaller appetite. All food and water should be brought up by 5-7pm so he/she goes to sleep with an empty bladder and bowel. So they can sleep through the night with limited potty breaks. They eat around 7am, and 5pm. They will need to go potty immediately after sleeping and about 15-20 minutes after eating. Put your puppy on a set eating schedule. You can set an alarm on your smart phone so you can stick to their schedule easier.

By setting the schedule as soon as your puppy comes home, you’ll be on your way to a happy, well-adjusted dog. It’s worth putting in the time and effort right now and not waiting until he’s older, bigger, and set on less acceptable behaviors.

Puppy is Not Eating

Not eating for the first day or day and a half – that can happen. Things are different for every puppy and how they react. In our care, puppies generally do as other puppies do; when one eats, they all eat. The adjustment period should only last a day or so. They may also get the runs from the stress this is also normal.

Too Much to Handle

Try to put yourself in your new dog shoes, even though he doesn’t wear any. He just got into a new home with new people, new smells and new noises. Despite all you do, his routine will be disrupted and he may be somewhat stressed. As much as you’re eager to let all your friends and family meet him, it’s best to give your puppy some space and time to adjust. Moving to a new home is stressful for many dogs and when a dog is stressed, the appetite is often the first thing to go out the window.

Loads of Excitement

Stress aside, some dogs may be over the top with excitement the first day in your home. If your new dog moves a lot, explores and goes back and forth eager to get attention from you and your family, he may be refusing food simply because there are way too many other great things going on. Finally, once he settles down and relaxes, his next thought may be to just curl up and take a deserved nap rather than eat.

Missing Mama and Siblings

If you just got a new puppy, he may feel a bit lonely and scared of suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings. Being used to living with his mother and siblings since the day he was born, it’s quite normal for him to whine and feel a tad bit lonely the first night. If your pup refuses food, consider that some pups may require some privacy, a little bit of coaxing or perhaps some companionship to eat. Keep an eye on small breed pups though; they’re susceptible to low blood sugar and need frequent feedings in small quantities.

Tips to Encourage Eating

If your dog is not interested in food, don’t force it; just try again at the next feeding time. Chances are, once he adjusts and realizes there’s nothing to be afraid of, he’ll resume eating. Walking him and engaging him in play may help bring his appetite back. Warming up the food in the microwave or adding a bit of warm water or broth to the food may make it more enticing.

Crate Training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn’t one of them:

  • Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten them.
  • Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that’s OK; don’t force them to enter.
  • Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

  • If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
  • If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
  • Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating.
  • If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they’ll keep doing it.

 Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods

After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you’re home.

  • Call them over to the crate and give them a treat.
  • Give them a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
  • After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat, and close the door.
  • Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let them out of the crate.
  • Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you’re out of sight.
  • Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house.

  • Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate.
  • Vary the moment during your “getting ready to leave” routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
  • Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so they doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Congratulations. You are on your way with a well-trained puppy that sleeps well all night.

 How Does Vaccination Work?

Vaccination helps prevent, not cure, disease. Vaccines contain disease-causing viruses or bacteria that have been chemically changed so they don’t cause disease. When your dog is injected with a vaccine, the animal’s immune system produces special substances called antibodies that work against the viruses or bacteria that cause the disease. Later, if your pet is exposed to that disease, these antibodies will help destroy those viruses or bacteria.

In many cases, vaccines against several diseases are combined, reducing the number of shots your pet must have. Despite progress to make vaccination as comfortable as possible, substances in some vaccines can occasionally sting when injected. The protection provided by a vaccine gradually declines after a pet is vaccinated. Annual re-vaccination is recommended for some dogs. However, in most dogs a DHLPP vaccine may be given every 3 years to adult dogs. Your doctor will help decide if this is appropriate for your pet.

Why Do Puppies Require a Number of Shots?

A nursing puppy receives antibodies from its mother’s milk (called maternal antibodies) that protect it from disease during the first months of its life. Unfortunately, these antibodies can also keep a vaccine from being effective. These maternal antibodies gradually decrease during the first few months of the puppy’s life. That’s why puppies are given a series of

Vaccinations until they are 16 weeks of age or older. That way, if maternal antibodies interfere with early vaccinations, later doses will still stimulate the puppy to produce its own antibodies to the disease.

DISTEMPER  

Distemper is a highly contagious disease of dogs, wolves, coyotes, raccoons, mink and ferrets. It is easily spread through the air and by  Contaminated objects. Signs can range from that of a bad cold and fever to sever diarrhea, vomiting, seizures and pneumonia. Though the disease occurs more often in young dogs, those of any age may contract distemper. Death is common.

HEPATITIS

Infectious Canine Hepatitis is a serious viral disease that affects the liver, kidneys, lymph nodes, eyes and other organs. This virus is spread by contact with an infected animal or its stools or urine. It is characterized by high fever, loss of appetite, and increased thirst. In some cases, there is bloody diarrhea. The virus may be present in any body secretion and may be present in the urine for up to 6-9 months after an apparent recovery. Hepatitis is most serious in very young animals. Recovered animals may be afflicted with chronic illnesses.

LEPTOSPIROSIS

This disease can be caused by either of two organisms called spirochetes. Some strains are contagious to humans and can be transmitted by contact with urine of an infected dog. Leptospirosis attacks the liver and kidneys and was a deadly killer before the vaccine was developed. Recovered animals may shed the organism in their urine for up to 1 year. Infected rats are a common source of leptospirosis.

PARVOVIRUS

Dogs become infected with parvovirus through contact with the stool of an infected dog or a contaminated environment. The virus is very hardy and remains infective in the environment for a long period of time. Puppies are most susceptible to parvovirus infections. Parvovirus causes severe and often bloody vomiting and diarrhea. Infected animals rapidly dehydrate. Severe cases progress to shock and death. Fatalities occur mostly in puppies less than 12 weeks old. Prompt veterinary care is essential to recovery, but there is still a great likelihood of death.

BORDETELLA (Parainfluenza)

Kennel cough is a stubborn respiratory infection that can keep dogs coughing for weeks or months. Canine respiratory disease isn’t usually Fatal unless pneumonia develops. It can cause appetite loss, lack of energy and poor appearance in addition to coughing. When infected dogs cough, disease-causing organisms get into the air and can easily infect other dogs. Animals kept at boarding kennels, shelters, pet shops, grooming shops, dog shows and veterinary clinics are considered at higher risk. A wide variety of viruses and bacteria can be involved in canine respiratory disease.

The three most commonly involved are: Canine Parainfluenza Virus, Canine Adenovirus Type 2 (CAV-2) and Bordetella Bronchiseptica Bacteria. For best results, dogs should be vaccinated at least one week prior to being placed in group confinement or exposure to potential canine Cough disease syndrome conditions.

RABIES

Rabies is a fatal disease caused by a virus. All warm-blooded animals are susceptible. The disease is usually spread when an infected animal bites another animal or person. The bitten animal or person will not become infected unless the saliva of the sick animal contains the rabies virus at the time of the bite. The bat, skunk and fox are the most commonly infected wild animals. Dogs and cats are the most commonly infected domestic animals. A virus that attacks nerve tissue causes rabies. The disease develops slowly over 10 days to several months. Death always occurs once a rabies-infected animal shows signs of disease. If a suspected rabid animal bites a person, the animal should be quarantined for 10 days. If the animal develops signs of rabies or dies, tissues must be sent to a laboratory for examination. Since rabies is such a threat to people and other animals, affected animals are not treated. Euthanasia is mandatory.

LYME DISEASE

Lyme disease is a complex illness that affects wild and domestic animals and people. Ticks in their larval stage feed on mice and other animals from which they pick up the Lyme disease. The most common problem is fever and arthritis. Some dogs with Lyme disease will develop life-threatening kidney complications. Dogs can be infected with Lyme disease even if they never leave their own backyard. When they leave our home your puppy will have had their first vaccination. Unlike human children you can’t just give young puppies 1 vaccine and call it good.

You’re actually trying to catch a window of time when their Mom’s Antibodies wear off and your puppies need to kick in. If the puppy still has the Mothers antibodies still in play then any vaccine that is given will be useless. So young puppies between 8 and 16 weeks old are given the same vaccines (all in one shot) every 3 weeks in an attempt to catch that perfect window of time. This can be accomplished with the first shot or the third. You just never know. This is why it’s SO important that you make sure that you’re making those vet appointments on time and that they’re getting all 3-4 sets of the same shot to make sure they are fully vaccinated.

Although the puppy immune system is not a simple one, one thing is simple – giving your puppy the best start in life begins with vaccinations and physical examinations from your veterinarian to monitor health progress. It’s the best insurance you can buy to protect your loved one for many happy years to come!

 POTTY SCHEDULE

 Puppy will need to go outside after the following:

  • first thing in the morning
  • after eating am & pm
  • waking up from a nap
  • playing excessively
  • coming out of the crate

The signs of having to go potty are sniffing and circling around. When you

CANNOT be with your puppy, then they need to go into the crate or playpen. Puppy can choke on bones, stuffed toys, beds and blankets! So be careful about what you put in their enclosure with them.

These are the starter items you’ll want for your new best friend.

Basic feeding needs

  • Water & food bowls
  • Dog food
  • Dog food storage bin
  • Dog food scoop

Basic walking needs

  • Collar
  • ID tag
  • Leash
  • Waste bags & dispensers

Basic sleeping needs

  • Dog bed

Basic training needs

  • Dog crate
  • Crate pillow or pad
  • Potty training pads
  • Dog treats
  • Dog door
  • Poop scooper

Basic safety needs

  • Dog first-aid supplies

Basic play needs

  • Dog plush toys
  • Dog chew toys
  • Dog fetch toys
  • Dog rubber toys
  • Rawhide chews

Travel

  • Dog carrier
  • Pet Insurance

Wellness

  • Dog calming & stress-reducing products
  • Dog dental care
  • Dog vitamins & supplements
  • Flea & tick treatment

Grooming tools

  • Dog brush & comb
  • Dog shampoo & conditioner
  • Dog nail clippers